m ([info]manjlanata) wrote,

Beach trek from Gokarna to Honnavar

As usual on my blog, the following comments are forbidden on this entry:

1. Wow! Nice write up.
2. Beautiful pics, I loved them.
3. Good write up, can I add you as a friend?
4. What a trek! I'm really jealous.


Beach trek from Gokarna to Honnavar


That's Gokarna beach. The starting point of our trek. We took 9PM Rajahamsa from Bangalore KSRTC bus terminal Thursday night. Reaching Gokarna at 8.30AM Friday morning, we booked a lodge to mess it up and checked out by 11AM. After a sumptuous breakfast in Pai Hotel which is on temple main road and a visit to Mahabalaswara temple, we were on Gokarna beach by 12PM. An exciting trek started then.

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Climbing a hillock on the left side of Gokarna beach as you stand facing it takes you to Kudle beach. There are many restaurants, cafes, and huts to stay here.

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Crossing another hillock and a 10-min flat path took us to the famous OM beach, shaped, as its name says, OM by nature. OM beach is not what it was 5 years before. It stands as a witness to how easy accessibility can fuck up serenity of beaches. There is a well-laid road leading right up to OM beach. You can see a bunch of big huts behind the beach.


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Going through rocky section at the far end of OM beach, an hour trekking, we reached Halfmoon beach. A shop that serves cold drinks with a board saying "Welcome to Halfmoon beach" is at the start of it. One hillock next to Halfmoon beach is the Paradise beach. It's no surprise this beach is named Paradise. There sure were Eves. It was around 4PM when we reached here.


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After having lunch here, we climbed the hillock next to the beach. As we were on our way to Belikan village, Mahesh - the guy who runs the only resort (hut) at Barka beach - ran into us. He offered us boat ride to Barka beach. It was the easy choice as otherwise we'd have to go to Thadhadi, cross Agnashini river by boat and trek to Barka beach. We made a deal to pay 350 for the boat ride. Boat ride was one heck of a joy one with our heart rates shooting up to the sky quite a many times. Our boat almost capsized once leading to a chorus of high pitched "oh fuck"s and "benchodh"s. Even the driver seemed a bit tensed since the boat seemed over-loaded with 13 people (we 10, 2 drivers - one to control the motor and another at the front giving a helping hand, Mahesh being the 13th) on board. He kept switching off the motor whenever high tides tried to throw us off the boat. Exciting as the journey was it was an immense relief when we reached the shore. Once Mahesh made sure that he had nothing to worry about our stay through the night (we had carried everything needed to prepare soup, rice, puliogare, and even masala tea, and sleeping bags to crash out in), he left leaving behind Barka beach entirely in our hands. We owned a beach!


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Barka beach, sandwiched between two hills, is hardly 200 feet in length! We fought with the powerful waves for some time before the sunset. Once the Sun set, it was time to cook. Barka beach resort has everything one ever would need for an overnight stay. A kitchen with 2 wood fire stoves, a veranda, fresh water, wood for cooking as well as for bonfire. We prepared masala chai, rice, puliogare, and hot-n-sour soup. They couldn't have tasted better. When you are on a trek, anything tastes good. After an hour of bullshitting each other around bonfire, it was time to get much needed sleep.


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We woke up by 7 the next morning and were preparing morning masala tea when Mahesh came at 8. It was 9 when we were all packed and ready to depart from Barka beach. As Mahesh declined to specify the amount we had to pay for our stay, we paid him 300 bucks. It's times like this that prove it's not money that can buy you memorable nights, but your efforts. Our over-night stay at Barka beach cost us 30 bucks per head! Mahesh volunteered to be our guide till a proper way to next beach shows up. After climbing the hillock on the left of Barka beach, we explored a dungeon that would probably have once been a wild party hall.


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As soon as we left the dungeon, our guide bid adieu telling us to go right once we reach a fort ahead. Doing so gave us the first closer view of the so called Long beach. We had breakfast at the fort before descended down to Long beach. Long beach has 2 beaches running adjacent (I may be wrong here. This beach is known by many names - Sangam, Long, Bada, Kaagal. It's probably 3 beaches running side by side with no hillocks in between, known by one name as Long beach). The near side is Kaagal and the far side Bada. Few boulders that lie on the beach half way through it probably mark their territories. We replenished our water bottles in the village next to Kaagal beach. There's a way on the left of boulders that I mentioned that takes one to the main road. This place is Gudeangadi. Take left on the main road and you'll find a hotel that serves Raagi Neeru! It's the first of its kind I came across. Raagi is the brownish millet that's as common as rice in Karnataka. No juice is as refreshing as Raagi Neeru. It's 4 rupees a glass. With about half an hour break in Gudeangadi, it took us almost 3 hours to reach the end of long beach. This beach was the longest of 11 beaches we crossed on this trek. It was 2.30 when we reached the end of long beach and we rested under a tree for 45 minutes (mentioning timings like this may not be of any interest to casual readers. But someone who might refer to blogs, like I did, to plan treks would find them certainly useful).


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Crossing rocky path over a hillock next to long beach took us to an unmanned semicircular beach. Unmanned as it was, this was the cleanest beach we passed through. At the end of it is a rocky section that separates it from the next beach. When we tried to cross it through, we found it too tough a challenge. Referring to a printout of a blog that had helped us plan this trip, we figured we had to climb up the hillock rather than taking the rocky path (the trek in the blog we referred to was done in reverse. They had climbed down to reach this unmanned beach). Sure enough, there was a way once we went up the hill. Honnali was the next beach we encountered.


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We had late afternoon lunch before descending down to Honnali beach. Once we were there, we refilled our water bottles and headed to Kumta beach. While in Honnali we found numerous boats christened in Muslim names, Kumta had the same in Hindu names. Religions divide anything - gods, people, and even beaches. As we entered Kumta beach, we saw localites playing cricket on the beach.


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Kumta was the second longest we had to cross on this trek. We covered as much of it as we could in time to catch one of the most beautiful sunsets I've watched. The shore here being quite big and nearly flat gives enough space for sunlight to reflect colorfully off of it.


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Once the Sun set, we went in search of fire wood to cook dinner. All we could find were thorny bushes and a few logs. Along with almost every scrap of paper (newspapers, printouts of blogs, and even some of tissue papers we had taken for emergency shitting in the wild) we had, it was the group's incessant profanities at the improvised firewood stove that fueled it enough to cook maggies and Tomoto soup. If that firewood stove was a human, or any living creature for that matter, none of us would have left the beach alive. After the dinner, we did moon-light beach trek. Being a full moon night, the beach was well lit enough that we could see hundreds of crabs on the seashore. When we could no longer fight the fatigue of day's long trek, we hit the sleeping bags.


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As we woke up at about 7 in the morning Sunday, Pramod distributed tissue papers as an extra hygiene measure (along with a bottle of sea water) for our morning nature calls. As we were packing things up to get ready to start the trek, the Sun rose from the hill behind.


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It took us an hour to reach the end of Kumta beach. Surprisingly, the Sun beat down on us without pity so early in the morning. Not having drinking water added to the woes. Thankfully though, we refilled our bottles in a house at the end of Kumta beach.

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Instead of climbing up the hillock next to Kumta beach, we tried going around it on its beach-side edge. This path took us to the smallest beach I've ever seen, hardly thirty feet in length sandwiched between rocky sections of two hillocks. Crossing through it seemed impossible to us and we decided to retreat and try climbing up the hillock next to Kumta beach. Although there was what looked like footpath here and there atop, we had to make our own way down to reach Ramanagundi beach. Always scared to climb down, the final descending, with so many little rocks and nothing to hold onto, scared the shit out of me. Once we reached Ramanagundi beach, we ate whatever packed food that was left. It was 11AM then. As we had to get to Udupi by evening from where return tickets were booked, we exited out of Ramanagundi beach. Walking for about half an hour through Umamaheswari village we reached the main road just when a KSRTC bus boarded to Udupi greated us (note that you can get back to bangalore from Honnavar, the nearest city from here. Since we couldn't get return tickets from Honnavar, Udupi ended up being our choice).


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Thus ended our 3-day beach trek that covered 11 beaches (in order, Gokarna, Kudle, Om, Halfmoon, Paradise, Barka, Long beach {Kaagal, Sangam, Bada}, Unmanned semicircular beach, Honnali, Kumta, and Ramanagundi) from Gokarna to Honnavar.


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-m.
Tags: trek

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  • 6 comments

[info]suddenlynita

March 7 2007, 04:26:01 UTC 5 years ago

What a trek! I'm really jealous.

[info]mausam

March 7 2007, 05:06:58 UTC 5 years ago

Beautiful pics, I loved them. :]

Anonymous

March 7 2007, 05:44:41 UTC 5 years ago

Not well written enough... the blog understates the fun u guys had.. so refrain from blogging whenever u encounter experiences of this kind... some things are better left unsaid...

the pics suck....

manja,are u happy with this comment ? :)

if u are, then u are a goof..

if u are not, then am happy...

heheheh


Anonymous

January 18 2011, 04:38:26 UTC 1 year ago

provides access

Nice work Brian you obviously put a lot of work into it. Lets hope 2010 is as fruitful for you.

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